Although I was born in Sri Lanka (then called Ceylon), I have spent less than a quarter of my life on the island so each time I visit I try and explore from the perspective of a foreigner. This is easier than you’d think because my Sinhalese is sufficiently weak that I hesitate to use it in public.

Sri Lanka is a small Island, but it has an an elevation range from sea level along the coast to just over 8000 feet in the central highlands. No, we don’t get snow. Although there are over 21 million people on the island much of that population is distributed in the southwest quadrant – so once you travel out of greater Colombo (the commercial capital) the country is mostly rural. Until recently most roads were narrow two-lane affairs at most making travel a long and tedious affair. In recent years some roads have been widened and a network of highways is being developed, drastically reducing travel times.

In my two previous posts I described two major European cities, Paris, France & Rome, Italy. In the case of Sri Lanka I will spend a lot of my time outside the current major cities because these cities are more recent in origin and retain little of their distant past. Sri Lanka is about an ancient history intermingled with nature in the form of beautiful beaches, verdant jungles and it wildlife, and the manicured tea plantations and spectacular mountain scenery of the central highlands.

I have split this post into three sections, to keep it manageable, and engaging to the reader. Here I address getting to Sri Lanka and the cities. In other posts I will discuss nature and wildlife (including beaches) and in another, culture and heritage. As for what to see on your trip, make a list of what you wish to do and see and plan your itinerary around the most efficient (time, cost) way to get to those sites.

A local tour company or guide can help you make decisions.

Preparing for Travel

Before traveling to Sri Lanka check if you need an electronic travel authorization (ETA) and obtain one at this site. Use only the official eta.gov.lk site because there are other sites that will process a visa for you but charge substantially more (ultimately they process the visa through the same eta.gov.lk site). The process is easy (very unusual for Sri Lanka) but beware Mac users – it does not always work well on iPads etc. Some traveller can also get a visa on arrival – but why take the chance?

Health

I recommend travel insurance with medical coverage for all travellers wherever their journey may take them.

With the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic health various health-related requirements have been implemented and are rigorously enforced. Because these requirements change over time it is best to check with the nearest Sri Lankan embassy or consulate or with your airline for the most recent update. At the time of writing this post tourists who are fully vaccinated (with a two-dose vaccine) and with a negative covid PCR test done within 72 hours of arrival will not have to quarantine. However, you should continue to take all necessary precautions such as wearing a mask in public settings.

Other vaccines that are recommended include mumps-measles-rubella (MMR) as well as a tetanus booster and diphtheria vaccine. Note that many of you will already have had these vaccines as they are common worldwide). Taking a prophylactic for Malaria (talk to your local doctor) is also recommended – and you may need to start this some time before you travel so check early. A recent announcement of a WHO-approved vaccine against malaria could be a game-changer so inquire from your doctor before you travel to any area where malaria occurs.

Things to Take With You

Take a look at my post on preparing for travel, but some essential items for this trip include:

• A hat with a brim
• Sunglasses
• Sunblock (wipes are best so you don’t spray it on people around you)
• An umbrella. A small folding umbrella is good to have for those unexpected showers.
• Insect repellant (again, get the wipes if you can)
• Immodium (or other anti-diarrheal, just in case)
• Swimsuit
• Lightweight cotton clothing including at least one pair of long pants/dress and a top that covers your arms – some religious sites will require you to be dressed “modestly.”
• Credit card (let your bank know you are traveling) and some cash

Arrival in Sri Lanka

The Bandaranaike International Airport (CMB) is one of three international airports in Sri Lanka, the others are the Ratmalana International Airport (RML) located south of and just outside Colombo and the other located in the southeast of Sri Lanka, near Hambantota – the Mattala Rajapakse International Airport (HRI). Don’t plan on traveling to Sri Lanka via Ratmalana or Mattala as neither of them currently host regular international commercial flights. (However, it was recently announced that International flights would be returning to RML with a flight between RML and Male in the Maldives.) One thing you will notice in Sri Lanka is that the modern-day politicians really love to name things after themselves – presumably because their actions are best forgotten.

The airport itself is rather disheveled with forgettable architecture. On disembarking your airplane and walking to the Immigration area you will need to fill a disembarkation card (if you were not provided one on the airplane). With your little disembarkation card and ETA in hand proceed to one of the immigration counters. Getting entry is usually very simple – the immigration officers are not very talkative (are they anywhere?) but are overall very efficient provided your paperwork is in order.

Duty Free on Arrival

Currency Exchange

As you leave the bank area you will notice two things – there will be lots of people clustered in the arrivals area, and counters along the righthand side wall and the wall near the exits.

Mobile / Cellphone SIM

Transport

Other options for travel from Colombo Airport (CMB) include public bus service and train service, both going in to the Colombo Fort area. There are also the ubiquitous “tuktuk” taxis – open-sided three wheelers often with unlicensed drivers that make a good effort at scaring the life out of you. With tuktuks here or anywhere in the country always negotiate a price up-front – if you do not you could well end up paying substantially more than you would for an air conditioned taxi. However, if you like living dangerously, go for it! You could also rent a self-drive car but I do not recommend it. Most Sri Lankan drivers would be surprised to hear there are rules for driving on public roads.

Hotels

Colombo has many excellent hotels ranging from budget backpacker type hotels to luxury hotels. I recommend staying in areas more central to Colombo Fort (Colombo 1) including Colombo 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7 (Slave Island, Collpetty/Kollupitiya, Bambalapitiya, Havelock Town, Wellawatta and Cinnamon Gardens respectively).

Check out available hotels on any of the online hotel booking consolidators but before you book with them go to the hotel booking site itself – I often find better prices booking directly with the hotel rather than going through a consolidator.

Colombo

In Colombo, check in to your hotel and relax, maybe take a short walk outside to acclimate to the heat and humidity. There are many hotels to choose from, from budget friendly to luxury hotels. Colombo tends to be hot and humid most times of the year (and getting hotter as the climate changes). There are not many areas where it is safe to swim in the sea in Colombo itself – so stay dry for now and leave that for the rest of your trip. If you have the time consider taking a Colombo City Sightseeing tour on an open-top double-decker bus – but note these are not hop-on-hop-off buses!

Colombo National Museum

The museum shop inside the museum consisted of a few musty damp-ridden publications and equally old postcards. There is an adjacent handicraft store (Laksala) selling the typical Sri Lanka tourist gifts of batiks, wood carvings, metal work etc.

The Dutch Museum

The Dutch Museum is located in the former residence of the Dutch Governor of Sri Lanka, in the Pettah area of Colombo. This museum also is not air conditioned but its design with a traditional central courtyard encourages airflow through the complex. The museum holds various artifacts from the period of dutch colonization of Sri Lanka from 1664 – 1795 AD.

Pettah Market

If you are in the Pettah area take a walk through the Pettah Market where you can buy pretty much anything but be prepared to haggle! If you decide to try the various food delicacies available in the area first watch how the staff handle the food – if it appears hygienic by all means try some, but be prepared for consequences! The food will likely not be contaminated but your digestive system may not be ready for the spice or the microfauna of the tropics. If the spice is too much try a cooling faluda or a lassi drink.

Independence Square

Located near the Colombo Museum, Independence Square hosts the Independence Memorial Building where ceremonies associated gaining independence from Britain were held, in 1948. The building itself is built in the style of the Royal Audience Hall of the Kings of Kandy.

Galle Face Green

The Dutch Hospital

At the southern edge of the Fort area the old Dutch Hospital has been renovated and revived as a shopping area with restaurants including the iconic Ministry of Crab – a must visit if you love seafood. It is not cheap and you may need a reservation so plan ahead!

Mount Lavinia

Just outside Colombo, to the south is the suburb of Dehiwela-Mount Lavinia. The beach near the Mount Lavinia Hotel is seasonally swimmable, but with care. The Mount Lavinia Hotel was built as the personal residence of the second British governor of Ceylon, Sir Thomas Maitland, and is worth a visit for the views and a Sri Lankan meal. The hotel’s Chef Publis de Silva is a celebrity who has worked at the hotel for over 60 years! You can dine while enjoying spectacular views over the Indian Ocean and the coastline up to Colombo.

Galle

The city of Galle (Point de Galle) is a city on the southwest tip of Sri Lanka about 78 miles from Colombo. Galle was long a major port for the island, originally known as Gimhathitha and was known to Ancient Greek and Roman geographers. It has also been suggested to be the seaport of Tarshish from which King Solomon got many of his valuable acquisitions. 

The central attraction of Galle is the Galle Fort, first constructed by the Portuguese in 1588 and subsequently further developed and expanded on by the Dutch from 1649 AD onwards.

The fort, often referred to as the Dutch Fort, is a UN World Heritage site and is now home to a variety of boutique hotels and restaurants while the residents include local and foreign artists, writers, photographers, designers, poets etc.

When visiting the fort take the time to wander down the streets and look out for the abundant signs of its past colonial heritage and take the ambiance of this historical fort. You will see the Dutch coat of arms with the ubiquitous emblem of cock and an inset “VOC” (for the Dutch East India Company) inscribed in the center over gates to the fort. You will also see relics of the subsequent British occupation of Sri Lanka such as the British coat of arms. Stop in at one of the many restaurants and in keeping with the dutch theme try some Lamprais (lomprijst), which loosely translates to a packet of rice, or try some frickkadels (Dutch forcemeat balls) also referred to as cutlets (or cutlis) by Sri Lankans.

Dutch Reformed Church

Built by the Dutch colonizers in 1640 it was renovated between 1752 and 1755. The church is paved with gravestones from the old Dutch cemetery and there is a church organ of 1760’s vintage.

The New Orient Hotel

The New Orient Hotel was originally built in 1694. It was built for the exclusive use of the Dutch Governor and his staff, it was converted into a hotel in 1865, and renamed the New Orient Hotel. The hotel initially catered to European passengers traveling between Europe and Galle Port in the 19th century. In 2005 was modernised and renamed the  Amangalla Hotel & Resort.

The Galle Lighthouse

Sri Lanka’s oldest lighthouse was built by the British in 1848 but it burned down in 1936. The new lighthouse was built as a replacement in 1939 and stands at a location known as Point Utrecht Bastion, giving it full view of any ships entering Galle Harbour.

Other Landmarks

Other landmarks within the fort include the old Dutch Government House. The Galle Clock Tower (Anthonisz Memorial Clock Tower) was built in 1883. The Great Warehouse built to store spices and other goods for export is now the National Maritime Museum (significantly damaged by the Tsunami of 2004 but now restored with aid from The Netherlands).

One other landmark, with a more modern origin, lies outside the ramparts of the Galle Fort. The Galle International Cricket Stadium is bounded on one side by the Galle Fort, on two sides by the Indian Ocean. It is one of (if not the) the most picturesque cricket grounds anywhere and sits on the site of what was The Esplanade.

Kandy

The capital of the last native Kingdom of Sri Lanka. The Kingdom of Kandy is situated in the central highlands of the island, was finally defeated by the British in 1815, when King Vikrama Rajasinha was defeated and taken to Vellore Fort in Southern India where he died in 1832.

Some of my favorite things to do in Kandy include:

The Royal Botanic Gardens

Originating as the gardens of the Kings of Kandy, the grounds were converted to the Royal Botanic Gardens by the British in 1821. Now spread over 60 hectares the gardens have over 10,000 trees and showcase Sri Lanka’s flora and representatives of many species from the tropical climates. The gardens are located just outside Kandy in Peradeniya.

The University of Peradeniya

Established in 1942 as the University of Ceylon, The University of Peradeniya is a located very near the Royal Botanic Gardens. The campus is

The Royal Palace and the Temple of the Tooth Relic

The Royal Palace of Kandy was the residence of the last kings of Sri Lanka and a walk through the palace and grounds is well worth a visit, particularly the Queen’s Chamber, Concubine’s Quarters, Council Chambers, and the Armory Section.

There is also an Archaeological Museum which was formerly a part of the palace. The gates of this museum are huge with intricate works adorning it. The museum has a collection of pots, daily used possessions of kings and queens, woodworks and wood carving. Palace Park located in the boundaries of the Palace. The Palace Park is well-maintained and provides visitors with a stunning view of the Kandy Lake.

The Temple of the Tooth, where a tooth relic of the Buddha is kept, is associated with the Palace and is the main draw for tourists – most of whom will be Sri Lankans. If you wish to view the relic note that it is on display only during very specific and restricted times. Personally, I skip the Temple of the Tooth and head straight to the Palace.

Kandy Lake

The artificial lake that sits at the center of Kandy was built by King Vickrama Rajasinghe in 1807. If you go to Kandy you cannot miss the lake – it is adjacent to the Royal Palace and the Queens Bathing Pavillion extends into the lake. Take the time to stroll along the lake or even circumnavigate the entire lake – it is a 2.1 mile hike.

Kandyan Cultural Center

Not far from the Palace and adjacent to the Kandy Lake, the Kandyan Cultural Center is a performing arts theater where you can view traditional Sri Lankan (Kandyan) dance. The performances include a “fire walking” display – and, no, the audience cannot participate.

Other Cities

Other cities worth adding to your tourist agenda include Jaffna in the north of the country, Trincomalee (northeast), Batticaloa (east), and Matara (South). Unfortunately I have never visited Jaffna (although I aim to remedy that on my next visit to Sri Lanka) and the others are distant memories that I can not recall sufficiently to describe or recommend. However, I will remedy that and update this post in near future.