Rome, the Eternal City
It is still difficult to think of traveling, what with the Covid-19 virus mutating into even more easily transmissible forms. The continued reluctance of some to taking even simple precautions to curtail the spread of the virus is dragging out the pandemic-related restrictions way beyond what should have been its lifespan. So, to remind myself of happier times, I’m dredging up memories from past travels. This time revisiting Italy – specifically the Eternal City, Rome.
The story of Romulus and Remus, twin brothers of royal lineage left to die on the banks of the River Tiber, their rescue by the God of the River, and eventual rise to reclaim the throne for their grandfather evokes aspects of many other ancient and modern myths. The kinship between the Romulans and the Vulcans (in the Star Trek saga) continues the development of the myth from the past way into the future and space, the new frontier! Even Harry Potter got into the act with Remus Lupin who turned into a werewolf.
Romulus killing Remus over a disagreement on whether to build their new kingdom on the Palatine Hill or Aventine Hill, reflects the disagreements our human family seem to have over pretty much anything. Come on guys, they are both hills after all. Its sad to see we have not changed much in this regard over thousands of years!
Anyway, getting back to Italy and Rome, obviously Romulus won the argument because 1. he killed Remus, and 2. Rome was built on the Palatine Hill, and 3. Its called “Rome”, not “Reme.”
Before you go
Travel broadens the mind. You will enjoy your travel much more if you are prepared with all the physical necessities and the right mindset. For some general advice on preparing for travel and travel itself look here.
When in Rome…
When in Rome you are surrounded by a history that shaped much of modern Europe from the the Iberian Peninsula in the west, British Isles the north, into Asia Minor in the East and Egypt and the coastal areas of North Africa to the south. And it wasn’t just their culture they left behind. I was chatting to a close friend (who traces her ancestry to Scotland) recently about the results of increasingly common genetic tests, and she was surprised that she had a substantial amount of genes from the Mediterranean area around Italy. Aha! Those doggone Romans! Hadrians Wall obviously wasn’t that much of a defense against some sweet-talking legionaries!!
While the invading Roman armies obviously left their mark on the colonies, Roman colonial areas in turn shaped Rome. In current times a visit to Italy is to immerse yourself in a history that surpasses the current national boundaries of modern-day Rome (Italy), and food!
Hotels
My first visit to Italy was in the mid-1980’s, and it was summer. Rome and all of Italy was hot and humid! As a grad student on a budget I stayed somewhere near the main Terminii railway station, in a Pensione (bed and breakfast). The choice of being near the railway station had as much to do with the fact that I was traveling by train (Eurail passes rock!) as it did the price. These were the days of paper maps and no Uber, smartphones, or money, so being able to navigate and walk to a hotel was very important.
I will assume you arrive in Rome via the airport at Fiumicino Leonardo da Vinci (FCO) southwest of the city. There is also the smaller Ciampino airport to the southeast of the city. For a first time visitor a hotel in the Pantheon / Piazza Navona / Campo de’ Fiori areas would probably be best as it is near all the main attractions of Rome. For the budget minded traveller (or someone who plans to travel via train) the areas around Roma Terminii/Esquilino will make your stay and transit easy. The Piazza di Spagna area (at the bottom of the Spanish Steps) has many luxury hotels. To make the best use of your time, plan what sights you want to see and then get a hotel that is more or less central to the attractions (and that fits your budget).
Be warned that pensiones and other budget hotels may not have elevators and if you are unable to climb several flights of narrow stairs it would be better to avoid them. Most online hotel booking services should include a description and if they do not say anything about an elevator, assume there is none. To check, you can call or email the hotel. Also, if the hotel room price seems like a bargain, check on what issues may be causing the price drop – I have found some great bargains only to find broken elevators, ongoing construction, etc. If you don’t mind a bit of a workout with the stairs, the construction is generally not a problem since construction is usually in the daytime when you are visiting the city.
Travel within Rome
Rome has an underground railway, the Rome Metro (la metropolitana) with just three lines is small and therefore relatively simple to navigate but some of the trains are old and graffiti covered (but that happens elsewhere, also). Part of the reason for the Rome Metro being small is that there is so much buried archaeology under Rome it is difficult to build tunnels without running into some historical artifact!
For details on the metro look here. Some Rome attractions have stations nearby and the Metro is definitely the quickest way to get to most of them (depending on your starting point). Because there are not many interconnections between lines it would make sense to plan your sightseeing based on the Metro line – do all the A line sights, then the B line sights, etc – this is not a rule but it can make life a lot simpler.
Rome also has bus service but I’ve mentioned elsewhere my reluctance to take a bus if I can’t figure out when to get off for a particular attraction. The bus map is not particularly user-friendly if you are not already very familiar with the city. However, smartphones with a map app to show your location does make it easier.
The hop-on-hop-off bus tours are another alternative – and they will tell you when to get off for a particular attraction – but if you spend a lot of time at one or two attractions you will end up spending more than you would on the Metro or bus – but I have done it several times and it is very convenient.
Uber operates in Rome, but only UberBlack, which is more expensive than the common UberX. Also, there is often surge pricing so it can be quite expensive. Ordinary taxis can cost less but you have to find one to use it. Taxi drivers can be less than honest in how they get from point A to point B so beware.
Many of the sights in Rome are clustered in a relatively small area – so traveling to a central location and walking to various sites is very doable. The Vatican is probably the exception to the rule – I used the hop-on-hop-off bus to get there and back.
Pickpockets, Beggars, and Grifters
In Rome, more than in any other European city I have visited, there appear to be more pickpockets, beggars and grifters. I have personally seen groups of urchins harass tourists – surrounding lone tourists/stragglers, beg for money while others make a grab for valuables. So stay aware of your surroundings, and within or near groups of people. But then there is the possibility of getting pickpocketed – so secure your valuables. Pickpockets (or for that matter street urchins) are not a uniquely Roman problem so consider wearing a money belt or a wallet worn under your clothes. Keep cell/mobile phones and cameras tightly grasped or strapped to your wrist to prevent grab and run thefts.
In the area around the Vatican (outside the buildings) expect to see women dressed to resemble nuns (they are not) selling flowers or sprigs of dried vegetation or holding boxes that look a lot like collection boxes. Don’t fall for it – they are con-women trying to get a share of your hard-earned $$.
Food & Restaurants
Here I have to make an admission that will have readers saying “WHAT!!!?” I don’t really like Italian food that much. I really don’t like most Italian food available in the US (usually too tomatoey, too much cheese, don’t like oregano, and the list goes on). I was hoping it would be different in Italy and while it was somewhat better it is not a cuisine I can eat for more than a couple of days before I yearn for something different. I know. I’m weird.
My most recent trip to Italy was in the winter – Rome for Christmas in fact. Turkish Airlines had managed to lose my bag (I got it back 2 days later) so initially I wasn’t in a great mood. We made dinner reservations through the hotel and had Christmas Day dinner at a nearby restaurant and the food was passable. I did like Tortellini soup, the Arancini and the accompanying Focaccia but would readily pass on the pasta and the meat dish of lamb. Two days later I couldn’t stand the thought of another Italian meal. There really is (was) not much variety in the way of international cuisine in Italy.
During our many sightseeing walks we found a Planet Hollywood which gave me some respite (I can only manage a PH meal once a month, max) but the real savior was a Chinese restaurant that I was able to find – the only non-Italian restaurant for miles around, on the “AroundMe” app on my iPhone. With my palette cleansed I was able to survive several more days.
Patricia is much more fond of Italian cuisine, and she says the food was good, so there you are. Two divergent views of restaurant food in Italy. We did find some excellent street food including Pizza Taglio (Pizza sold in squares, with a wide variety of toppings many of which were not overpowered with tomato, Zeppole (crispy dough balls with various fillings, dusted with sugar), Sfogliatella riccia (layers of phyllo dough with a sweet ricotta filling – one of the few ways I like ricotta), and of course Cannoli and Sicilian Gelato!
I recently “created” a lasagna that has no tomato and uses béchamel sauce instead of ricotta. I used Moroccan Harissa instead of a tomatoey marinara type meat sauce. Since the area of North Africa that is now Morocco was part of the Roman Empire I feel I stayed within the spirit (if not the flavor) of the Italian experience. My guests loved the dish and wanted the recipe which you can find here.
The Sights of Rome I
There are many online sites that offer tours and tickets to visit the various archaeological sites in Rome. However, the best rates and most up-to-date information for the Colosseum Forums and Palatine can be found at the official site: P•AR•Co and the Official Concessionaire CoopCulture. Pay particular attention to Covid-19 related requirements.
At the time of writing this post there is no Metro station near the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument (a monument to Italy’s first King) completed in 1927 (a modern monument by Roman standards) although a new station, Venezia, is planned for near the monument. So, we started at the other end of the Roman Forum, at the Colosseum.
The Colosseum, Palatine Hill, Circus Maximus, Roman Forum and the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument can be done in a day but to really experience the history and atmosphere of these areas consider splitting your visit into two days.
The Colosseum
To get to the Colosseum take the line B Metro south to the Colloseo station. It should take about 5 minutes from Roma Termini; and there is a short (less than 5 minute) walk to the entrances. The Colosseum can get crowded so get there early.
The Colosseum is one of the best known of Romes many historical buildings. Built by the Flavian Dynasty, it was completed in 84AD. It is oval in shape built of travertine limestone and concrete with a brick facade. It is thought to have held 50,000 to 80,000 spectators. It was used for a variety of entertainment including gladiatorial combat, re-enactments of famous battles and even mock sea battles. It is still the largest standing amphitheater in the world, in spite of its age.
Inside, the floor of the amphitheater, originally made of wood and covered with sand, has collapsed, revealing the hypogeum below. The hypogeum, where gladiators and animals were held, was constructed after a decision to end staging sea battles – which would have required flooding the area with water. There are also several tunnels connecting the Colosseum to nearby staging areas from which gladiators, animals etc. could be brought in, out of sight of the attendees.
The Arch of Titus
Southwest of the Colosseum is the Arch of Titus, comissioned by emperor Domitian to commemorate the sacking of Jerusalem and the plunder of its temple by emperor Titus in 70 AD. The arch is made of white marble and Titus is referred to as “Devine” and below the arch there is a relief showing an eagle carrying a bust of Titus to heaven.
The Palatine Hill
Further to the southwest is the Palatine Hill. Entry is included in your Colosseum ticket and it is well worth spending some time wandering through the ruins of the most central of Romes seven hills and one of the oldest parts of the city. This area is thought to have been inhabited since at least the 10th Century BC. It had several palaces and including Nero’s palace Domus Transitoria which was burned by fire in 64AD (presumably while he played his fiddle) which he replaced with an even bigger Domus Aurea, which was later built over by Domitian. These waves of building over older structures has resulted in much of Romes ancient history being below ground.- and why building underground Metro lines is so difficult.
Roman mythology says the Palatine Hill is the location of the Lupercal, the cave where Romulus and Remus were found and kept alive by the she-wolf Lupa.
The photo shows the Palatine Hill from the Southwest, with the Circus Maximus in the foreground.
The Circus Maximus
This ancient Roman entertainment venue was used for chariot races, gladiator contests, plays, recitals and various other entertainment. The stadium lies southwest of the Palatine Hill in the valley between the Palatine and Aventine Hills. It was able to accommodate 150,000 spectators and it was the largest stadium in Ancient Rome. It is now a public park.
Head back to the Colosseum and walk northwest along Via Sacra – it will take you to the Roman Forum.
The Roman Forum
The Roman Forum (Forum Romanum) is a rectangular plaza surrounded by the (now ruined) remnants of several important government buildings. The forum lies in a small valley between the Palatine and Capitoline Hills.
This would have been the center of daily life in Ancient Rome, a center of commerce, a site for victory processions, and a venue for speeches, trials and even gladiatorial matches. The ancient 8th Century Royal Palace (Regia) and the Temple of Vesta (7th Century BC) are on the the forum, as is the Complex of the Vestal Virgins.
Continue walking northwest as you explore the nooks and crannies of The Roman Forum and you will eventually arrive near the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument. It is huge and white and impossible to miss.
The Vittorio Emanuele II Monument
The Vittorio Emanuele II Monument commemorates the first king of a unified Italy, formed in 1861. The monument is a huge white marble structure that stands out against the mostly red and orange hues of Romes other buildings. Victor Emanuel passed away in 1878 and he is buried in the Pantheon. The monument, for which Romans have many less than complimentary names, was completed in 1911. In 1946, after the conclusion of the Second World War the Italian monarchy was dissolved following a constitutional referendum.
The monument also houses the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and at its base it houses the Museum of Italian Reunification.
There are no Metro stations nearby so your options are to walk back to the Colleseo station, or take a bus or taxi – unless your hotel happens to be nearby.
The Sights of Rome II
Vatican City
You will need an entire day at least to see the Vatican, so start early. There is no Metro station near the Vatican so bus or taxi are your available options – or do what we did – buy a hop-on-hop-off bus pass. It may cost more but you will know exactly where you are going and when to get off and you get to see some of the city on the way.
Before you go, visit the official visitor web site for the Vatican – appraise yourself of the requirements including dress code. The rules are strictly enforced – during my last visit individuals who took photos in the Sistine Chapel (there is always some twit who makes his/her own rules) were escorted out as that is a no-no. On that note, when I first visited in the mid 1980’s photography was allowed so I do have a few photos of the chapel.
Keep in mind that since the signing of the Lateran Treaty in 1929, The Vatican is an independent City-State, surrounded by Rome, Italy. With just 49 hectares (121 acres) it is the smallest state in the world.
Even though I have visited the Vatican on a few occasions I still have not seen all there is to see so take your time and enjoy the splendor of the Basilica and Museum and various other indoor and outdoor areas. Then go to the Trevi Fountain and throw a coin in so you can come back and see more!
Papal Basilica of St. Peter in the Vatican
First and foremost, the Basilica of St. Peter in the Vatican is a functioning church. As such, there is no fee to enter the basilica. However you can skip the line by buying a preferred entry with audioguide and also access to the dome. Note, St. Peters’ is not a Cathedral – it is not the seat of a Bishop. The seat of the Pope, as Bishop of Rome, is at St. John Lateran.
From the top, clockwise: View of St. Peters Square from the steps to the Basilica; the Papal Altar with the Baldacchino canopy above. The Tomb of St. Peter is said to lie directly below the altar; the Dome of St. Peters Basilica; The Pieta by Michelangelo; a view toward the Papal Altar; Outside view of St. Peters Basilica, from the square.
St. Peters Square
The first thing you may notice on entering the Vatican through St. Peters Square is that the the square is ellipsoid in shape! The more correct term is Plaza, or Piazza in Italian (Piazza San Pietro). The plaza was designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini and constructed from 1656 to 1667 so that “the greatest number of people could see the pope give his blessing” and enclose the visitor in the “maternal arms of Mother Church.” At the center of the plaza is an Egyptian Obelix erected in 1586.
St. Peters Basilica
Although The Papal Basilica of Saint Peter in the Vatican is not a cathedral, it is the largest church in the world (as measured internally) and is stunning for its exterior (taken as a whole, including the Plaza) and interior architecture. As mentioned earlier entry to the Basilica is free but expect long delays as people queue up to go through security to gain entry. I recommend the paid skip-the-line entry which includes an autoguide.
When inside, let your eyes acclimate to the dim light, and take the time to appreciate the central main altar (the Papal Altar) with the huge Baldacchino canopy above, and even further above, the dome. Inside the Basilica your eyes will be drawn upward, to the ornate but beautiful ceiling and the oversize statues of various saintly figures. The two most famous statues are The Pieta and the statue of St. Peter.
When crowded (most of the time) it is almost impossible to take a good photograph from a good angle because of the crowds of visitors congregating around key pieces of art. While many look, photograph and move on others may camp out in front of their favorite piece. Keep in mind though that this is a functioning church and they may be praying – which is the primary function of the building. So, chill – wait your opportunity if you can, or walk on, happy with the fleeting glimpse you were able to grab.
The Pieta
The Pieta (photo above) is Michelangelo’s only signed sculpture carved out of a block of Carrara marble during 1498 to 1500 and depicts a lone Virgin Mary cradling the dead body of Jesus after he was removed from the cross. This carving more than any other launched Michelangelo’s career, and one can see why.
Unfortunately, in 1972, a mentally deranged man (Lazlo Toth) attacked the statue with a hammer and severely damaged it. While the statue has been restored it still bears some of the scars of the attack and now sits behind a glass security shield.
Statue of St. Peter
This ancient bronze statue portrays St. Peter holding the keys to the kingdom of heaven as he gives a blessing and preaches. Over centuries, millions of pilgrims are thought to have touched and kissed his foot, wearing it thin. The statue is attributed to Arnolfo di Cambio (1245-1302).
Photo: Jebulon, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons
The Basilica Underground
More than just a possible name for a Rock Band, there are many treasures under the floor of the Basilica.
In the 1st Century AD the Vatican Hill was far outside the city (which was then centered on and around the Palatine Hill). The Vatican hill was a cemetery. Emperors Caligula and Nero had a racetrack there (referred to as Caligula’s Circus or Nero’s Circus), and the apostle Peter (Saint Peter) is said to have been executed (by crucifixion in 64 AD) in the racecourse and buried in the cemetery on the Vatican Hill.
The Papal Altar at the center of the Basilica is reputed to have been built directly above the tomb of Saint Peter. I have not been able to see the tomb but tours are possible with special permission to the tomb and other areas of the necropolis under the Basilica. Its on my list of things to do.
The Sistine Chapel
The Sistine Chapel, originally known as the Cappella Magna (Great Chapel) was built between 1473 and 1481 under the patronage of Pope Sixtus IV. The name Sistine is derived from this Popes name. It serves both religious and other functions – for example it is in here that a new Pope is selected from among the Cardinals.
However, in spite of its functional importance, the real fame of the Sistine Chapel arises from the frescoes of the chapel ceiling, and the Last Judgement, both by Michelangelo.
The photos above are from a visit to the Sistine Chapel in the mid-1980’s when photography (albeit without a flash) was permitted. Now, no photography is permitted. The quality of the photos is a reflection of having to take photographs in a crowded chapel with no flash and no tripod permitted. Also, restoration work had begun on the frescoes (in 1984) and part of the ceiling was covered while restoration work was carried out. During my last visit the frescoes were much brighter and greater detail was visible, reflecting the excellent work of the restorers.
And yet, no photograph can do justice to these pieces of art. Go see it for yourself. Other artists also contributed to the paintings in the chapel, Sandro Botticelli, Pietro Perugino and others, but the works of Michelangelo are the star attraction. Imagine standing (he did not lie on his back) on scaffolding 20 meters above the ground and painting complicated groups (over 300 figures) of frescoes on a curved ceiling so they had the correct proportions to someone viewing them from below!
The Vatican Museums
For the latest information on Vatican Museums and pre-purchase tickets visit this site. The treasures of the Vatican Museums have been collected over almost 2000 years and are distributed across 26 museums. In fact the Sistine Chapel is inside the Vatican Museums so you will need to buy a ticket to the museums to visit it.
The collections include some of the worlds most important pieces of art, archaeology and ethology and have to be seen – not described by me. The helical staircase – the Bramante spiral stairs are worth a visit all its own. It was built to connect the Belvedere palace of Pope Innocent VIII to the outside and is a double helix, allowing upward and downward travel to proceed unhindered by each other.
You can easily spend one day visiting the Vatican Museums including the Sistine Chapel and the Pontificial Villas and Gardens and other Archaeological sites and still not have seen everything there is to see. I know I haven’t. I have still to explore the villas and gardens and archaeological sites. So, if you have the time plan on two or even three days.
The Sights of Rome Part III
Trevi Fountain
The closest Metro to is Barberini-Fontana de Trevi from where it will take you 6 – 9 minutes to walk to the Trevi Fountain.
Work began on the Fountain, sculpted in Travertine stone, in 1732 under Nicola Salvi and when Salvi died in 1751 with the fountain half finished, four different sculptors worked on the project which was eventually completed in 1762 by Giuseppe Pannini.
Standing at 26.3 metres (86 ft) high and 49.15 metres (161.3 ft) wide it is impressive in size, and its baroque form fits in well with the city of Rome.
The fountain is probably the most famous in the world, having been romanticized and featured in several movies not the least of which was, Three Coins in the Fountain (1954) with the song of the same name. Coins are to be thrown into the fountain with your right hand over your left shoulder, purportedly ensuring that you will return to the fountain some time in the future.
Over 3,000 euro are estimated to be thrown into the fountain each day and the money is used to subsidize a market for Romes needy. So, even if you never return to Rome, you would have done at least one good deed during your visit to Rome.
Unfortunately, here too it is very difficult to get a decent photograph due to the vast crowds that gather around the fountain. However, as with everything else, chill, take in the sight with your eyes, and be quick with your camera when the opportunity arises.
The Spanish Steps
Just 650m (7-8 minute walk) North of the Trevi Fountain are the Spanish Steps. The 135 step stairway was built between 1723 and 1725, and popularized in the US via several cinematic films including Roman Holiday (Audrey Hepburn & Gregory Peck) and more recently The Talented Mr. Ripley (Matt Damon).
Obviously I am no romantic as I would rather travel west from the Trevi Fountain to the Pantheon.
The Pantheon
A seven-minute (650m) walk to the west from the Trevi Fountain will take you to the Pantheon.
The Pantheon was constructed by Emperor Hadrian as a Roman temple around 126 AD on the site of an earlier temple commissioned by Marcus Agrippa (27BC – 14AD) that had been destroyed by fire. Since 609 AD it has been used as a Roman Catholic Church with the name Basilica of St. Mary and the Martyrs.
Note the inscription on the facade of the Pantheon which ascribes the building to Agrippa, translated as “Marcus Agrippa, son of Lucius, made (this building) when consul for the third time” – even though this building replaced his earlier one. The Pantheon is one of the best preserved ancient buildings of Rome, at least partly because it has been in continuous use.
The building itself is cylindrical – a fact that is belied by the rectangular entrance portico of large granite Corinthian columns.
The cylindrical shape and dome of the Pantheon can be seen clearly on the inside, and the condition of the interior of this ancient building reflects its past and present as a continuously used structure.
Two Kings of Italy are buried at the Pantheon, Victor Emanuel II (yup, he of the huge white monument) and Umberto I.
By Macrons – Own work, CC BY-SA 4.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=49683083
Piazza Navona
Proceeding west from the Pantheon, a short 4-5 minute walk will get you to the Piazza Navona. The Piazza occupies the site of the former Stadium of Domitian. The Piazza was designated as a public space sometime in the 15th Century when the public market was transferred there from the Campidoglio.
The Piazza is lined with restaurants and terraces, making it a great place to wind down and relax with a drink or even dinner after a long day taking in the sights of Rome. During winter a Christmas market is held in the Piazza – as was the case in the photographs above.
Its a Wrap!
I hope you find the descriptions above useful. I have tried to cover some of the major sights of Rome but there is much, much more to see and experience. If you have suggestions please share them with us through the Contact Us form or email us at ourtinyblueplanet@gmail.com.