Sri Lankan Cabbage Mallung
(Gova Mallung)
Growing up in Sri Lanka in the 1960’s & 1970’s we rarely ate raw greens. Lettuce was uncommon – at least partly because (at the time) uncooked greens were considered a health risk for food-borne diseases such as salmonella, listeria and cyclospora. When lettuce was served my mom would first get it soaked and washed in an anti-bacterial dip!
Food-borne pathogens can still be a problem, even in the US, as evidenced by several recent food poisoning outbreaks. However that doesn’t mean Sri Lankans don’t eat greens – they probably eat more greens than westerners do.
Sri Lankans eat leafy greens as a mallung. As far as I can tell the mallung is a uniquely Sri Lankan dish that can be made with many different leafy greens – but not lettuce. Cooked lettuce is a dish I urge you to avoid – it is nauseatingly bad. In Sri Lanka however there are so many other varieties of leafy greens that it is difficult to decide what to use.
I must not have liked mallung when I was younger. When I’d return to Sri Lanka on vacation my mother would make it a point to get large dishes of mallung prepared and she would then entreat me to eat it all “because it is good for you.” When I did she would look surprised and ask how come I ate it all. You just cannot win with mothers.
The fact is, I love mallung. Especially when it is made with gotukola or kankung or kathurumurunga, mukunuwenna, cabbage, kale, watercress, curly leaf parsley or even passionfruit leaves to name a few. Just don’t use any kind of lettuce!
Here is a recipe for a Sri Lankan cabbage (gova) mallung. It is very simple to make and it is healthy – there is no added fat other than the little bit of oil associated with the coconut. Because it is cooked there is little danger of getting a food-borne disease. And best of all – it is very tasty.
I could (and do) eat straight mallung with some boiled/steamed rice and nothing else. In general it would be served together with several other vegetable dishes such as a potato curry, parippu, and an aubergine (eggplant) moju.
However you eat it, it is guaranteed to please!

Sri Lankan Cabbage Mallung
Ingredients
Method
- Put all ingredients except the dessicated coconut, salt, and optional items (maldive fish flakes, chillie flakes) in a frying pan and heat on medium-high heat, stirring regularly.
- When the cabbage and onions start to brown and stick to the pan, reduce the heat to medium.
- Add the coconut, optional items if using, and salt to taste while stirring to incorporate the coconut and optional items, if used, into the cabbage mixture.
- After 3 – 4 minutes (or earlier if the mixture starts to brown excessively) remove from heat, add more salt if required. Serve with rice.