A week in Paris on the Seine
As vaccination to protect ourselves from Covid-19 start to take hold, although very slowly in some places, we can start to think of traveling again. I am fortunate to have visited Paris (France, not its namesake in Texas) on a couple of occasions. Before the onset of Covid-19, Paris was the second most visited city in the world. It is also the second most expensive city in the world.
My first visit to France was in the late 1980’s while a graduate student in New York, New York. Although I still have some old photographs and souvenirs of the trip the details are lost in the mists of time. I don’t even remember where we stayed. I remember it being in the outskirts of the city because it was too expensive for a starving graduate student in the City.
Before you go
Covid-19
France takes Covid-19 seriously and implements mandates such as wearing masks or lockdowns as and when needed. If you don’t want to end up incarcerated in a French prison (facing the guillotine or worse, a fine) follow the rules. You can always complain to your home consulate later.
Take a good supply of masks, antiseptic hand lotion, and all vaccine-related proof with you. Note that each tourist site you visit may have slightly different requirements so check their official websites before planning your visit. It isn’t complicated if you plan before you go.
Language
The French and the Parisians are not rude, nor do they “dislike foreigners.” They may dislike visitors who are rude or overly brash/obnoxious. And rightly so. If you are polite, ask for assistance instead of demanding it, express thanks, and if you at least make an effort to follow their social norms you will enjoy your visit! Some points to keep in mind:
- Smile
- When entering a shop or restaurant or tourist attraction start with a “Bonjour” (Bon-joor) meaning good day.
- If someone greets you with a Bonjour – respond the same way, Bonjour.
- At night use “Bonsoir” (bon-swar) good evening.
- If your greeting is authentic French you may get a response in French. Don’t panic, just say “Pardon, je ne comprends pas le Francais” (pardon, je ne comprends pa-le fransais) which means Sorry, I don’t understand French. Follow-up with “Parlez-vous Anglais?” (pa-le vu anglais – do you speak English?).
- If you must behave badly and make a mess of things some useful phrases to remember are: “S’il te plait ne me blesse pas” and “Où est l’hospital le plus proche?”
Most French people will go out of their way to work with you – perhaps finding someone who does speak English. The reluctance to speak English is usually because they are unsure of themselves and don’t want to look foolish – as is our own reluctance to speak a language we are not familiar with.
French and English are similar – as much as 27% – so fear not. And if they laugh at your grammar or pronunciation – so what – you can laugh back (silently, inside) when they try to speak in English. You are a tourist. You are allowed to make mistakes. At least you tried.
If you really want to communicate but don’t have the time to learn French, there are apps for your smartphone that do a reasonable job of translating speech rapidly – another reason to have a smartphone with a local SIM. There are even earbuds that will do the translation unobtrusively – at a higher cost.
Currency
France, as a member of the European Union, uses the Euro. Get used to doing a quick conversion from your local currency to Euros so you can estimate how much you are paying for something. You can find current currency conversion rates here. Remember, conversion rates can change very quickly.
Restaurants
The food in Paris is varied, and almost always good. It is often very very rich. Butter and cream can be used as main ingredients! Please don’t just go to fast food restaurants because that’s what you are familiar with – be a little adventurous. If you follow the suggestions above and ask nicely the waiters will try their best to help you select a dish you will enjoy.
The bread is exceptional, as are most baked goods. For lunch on the go buy a baguette, some cheese and ham, a bottle of wine. Cheap and delicious. What more can you ask for? Although French food dominates, you can also expect to find restaurants serving a variety of international cuisines. You can find very good Moroccan and Tunisian food in Paris because of the of immigrants from these former colonies.
One of our memorable experiences during our last visit to Paris was sitting at a restaurant near to a Parisian family group. Realizing we were foreigners we were spontaneously invited to join their celebration, plied with wine and joined in the numerous toasts (which we didn’t understand but no one cared). Their English was not fluent, but it was better than our French – but that didn’t stop us all from having a wonderful time.
Drinks
The French drink wine like we drink water. It is relatively cheap. You have to be at least 18 to drink alcohol in France. In fact, don’t buy bottled water – tap water is safe and actually tastes good. Take a reusable travel bottle(s) with you and fill from the tap at your apartment or hotel.
Roadside cafés epitomize what Paris is all about. People watching while sipping a coffee or even a wine sounds (and is) wonderful, but beware – depending on where you are, a drink at a café with a fabulous view could cost you $$$. It is your responsibility to check prices before ordering.
Tipping
Tipping is not required, but it is common to leave a small tip by rounding up your bill (for example a 27 Euro bill, round up to 30 Euro) or leave 5 – 10% for really good service. French (and most European) restaurant staff are paid a decent wage and do not depend on tips to make up most of there income.
Travel within Paris
The Metro, buses, taxis, Uber, and other minicab services are available in Paris. I don’t like traveling by bus simply because it is always a challenge figuring out when to get off the bus – although plotting your travel with Google or Apple map apps can help you with that challenge. Taxis, Uber etc. will work fine but cost more and traffic can be heavy at times. The Metro is comprehensive, efficient, relatively cheap and is my preferred method for travel in Paris.
The Paris Metro (subway, underground) is extensive and easy to use. The map is rather complicated to navigate but a new metro map attempts to make the map more user friendly. Having a smartphone with roaming capability (see my earlier post) will make navigation much easier – that is unless you lose it to a pickpocket!
If you decide to take my advice and use public transport Paris Visite Travel Pass is a great deal and allows for 1, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days of travel.
Value Added Tax
France has a Value Added Tax (T.V.A.) Some goods have a TVA as low as 2.1% but the standard rate is 20%. Restaurant food incurs a TVA of 10% and some luxury goods are taxed as high as 33%. You can get a refund for goods bought in France and taken out of France – for more information on this look here.
The price you see for goods includes the TVA. In the US you see a price but when you go to pay for the purchase you get mugged for an additional tax. The Europeans are much more honest. The price you see includes the tax.
If you buy an item costing more than 175.01 Euro you qualify for a VAT refund. Pay very careful attention to what you can or can not do with a purchase if you want to get a VAT refund. In Europe (not sure if it was France) I once opened a package just to look at the item I had bought – not realizing that by opening it I would no longer qualify for the refund. Also, if you are claiming a VAT refund arrive at your departure point early – I’ve had to abort getting a refund because of long lines and slow refund processing staff.
Weather
Although the common belief is that London gets a lot of rain, Paris gets a lot more. These are often light showers that leave as suddenly as they arrive. Paris is credited with getting 171 days of rain more than 0.1 mm.
Take an umbrella with you so you don’t end up frantically searching for one in Paris and having to spend an exorbitant amount for a cheap and flimsy umbrella at a touristy rip-off shop.
The Seine River
The Seine River is omnipresent in Paris. When you hear the terms left bank and right bank, even in this post, it is a way to orient yourself in Paris based on a river that meanders through it.
Looking at a map while holding it upright (with North facing up, or away from you), the river generally flows from east to west – toward the ocean.Now, imagine floating down the river…on your left you have the left bank, and on your right you have the right bank. Its actually very simple!
You can take boat excursions on the Seine. Since many Paris attractions are located along its banks this is also a good way to get oriented and get a feel for the city.
Montmartre & The Sacré Coeur Basilica
On our most recent visit staying closer to the center was a priority. We overcame the high prices by staying at a apartment rented through a vacation apartment rental site. Payment was made through PayPal and the keys to the apartment were waiting for us on arrival.
The apartment was up three flights of narrow but adequate stairs – if residing in the Montmartre area be prepared to climb! Being able to cook a few meals at our leisure and with produce from local markets made us feel we really were living in Paris. Parisians generally buy fresh produce to cook each day so don’t expect a huge refrigerator (or huge stovetop or huge oven or even a huge countertop) in your apartment kitchen.
The apartment was just a few steps from the Sacré Coeur Basilica, overlooking a cafe lined square filled with artists, Place du Tertre. Well worth a visit to get a flavor of Paris even if you don’t stay in the area.
The downside is that the Basilica and the apartment are set on a steep hill that got steeper after a long day sightseeing. Taking a taxi home or opting for the Montmatre Funicular to get to the top of the hill both worked on those long days.
Montmartre itself has ties to religious worship from the druids of ancient gaul through to Roman temples dedicated to Mars and Mercury. Although the first stone was laid in 1875 the basilica was not completed and consecrated until 1919, after the end of the First World War.
The architectural style of the basilica resembles the Saint Sofia of Istanbul more than it does the Notre Dame of Paris. The interior also is Roman-Byzantine and well worth a visit – entry is free and usually there are no long lines. From the front courtyard you can see all of Paris, with the River Seine 200 meters below.
This area of Paris has markets and grocery stores nearby and plenty of restaurants. As with any large city, at home or abroad, beware of pickpockets! Patricia had her pocket picked while at the grocery store – luckily all they got was a cellphone. I suggest carrying valuables in inside pockets, or using a travel purse/wallet you can wear under your outer clothes.
The Eiffel Tower
Using the metro, the Anvers Metro station is at the bottom of the Montmartre Funicular. Take the westbound (#2 line) train to Charles de Gaule Etoile (get off here if you want to see the Arc de Triomphe) and change to the #6 line.
If you fancy a bit of a walk get off at the Trocadero station and walk the 750 m (approx 1/2 mile). It is a touristy area but with stunning views of the Eiffel Tower, across the Fontaines de Chaillot.
If you prefer a little less walking, stay on the #6 metro until it reaches Bir-Hakiem station. This station is closer than the Trocadero, but not by much.
You will need a ticket to visit the Eiffel Tower. Currently you will also need a health pass (read Covid passport) or you may be ostracized or possibly taken to the guillotine for a factual demonstration – so be sure you have your health documents and your passport with you.
You can buy your Eiffel Tower ticket at the official website for the Eiffel Tower – but you must be at the tower at the time slot you buy your ticket for. You can walk or take the elevator to the second floor (115 m) or to the top via elevator (276m).
I recommend the top. The views across Paris are fantastic – but it can get crowded. Plan at least 2.5 – 3 hours for a full visit (2nd and top floor by elevator) or 2 hours for just the top floor. This includes wait time to go up and, especially, to come back down. If you plan to walk up it will take longer.
The Louvre
As with all other attractions in Paris, currently you must have a proof of vaccination against the Covid-19 virus.
The #1 or #7 Metro lines will take you to the Palais Royale Musee du Louvre, which as the name suggests is where you will find the Louvre Museum.
The Louvre is probably the largest and most famous museum in the world, and its collection holds some of the best known paintings such as the Mona Lisa and statues such as the Venus de Milo, and so much more. It can get very crowded so buy your tickets in advance. Entry is by time slot (just as it is for the Eiffel Tower) so get to the entry at the correct time!
If you want to see all the collections on display it will take several days. If you have several days to spend at the museum that would be great. Most visitors do not, so plan your visit in advance – decide which collections you are truly interested in, and book an early entry. The museum is closed on Tuesdays. It is open Wednesday – Monday from 9AM – 6PM but starts shutting down around 530PM.
Because the museum gets very crowded it is difficult to get high quality photographs of most exhibits. Even if you cannot photograph items without people, arms, legs in the way you can still enjoy seeing these beautiful reminders of our past.
As you walk through the Louvre, keep in mind that although it is now a museum, it was originally built as a fortress in 1190 (yup, 831 years ago) and was a royal palace before it was converted into a museum.
The glass pyramid (the Louvre Pyramid) that you will see as the centerpiece of the Louvre was built in the 1980’s and sits over the Hall Napoleon and is part of the vast underground space of the Louvre Museum.
A visit to the Louvre Museum is not just to look at art from the past. It is also a walk through the ever-changing history and society of France. From the original fortress built over 800 years ago to the modern structures built recently, and everything in-between.
The only downside to the Louvre is that it is just so big!
Musée d’Orsay
Take the #C Metro line to the Musée d’Orsay Station. Musée d’Orsay sits on the left bank of the Seine River southwest of the Louvre.
The Musée d’Orsay houses the world’s largest collection of impressionist art including masterpieces by Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, and Van Gogh. It is smaller than the Louvre and therefore much more manageable for a day visit. It occupies a former railway station – the Gare d’Orsay.
The former railway station has retained its character on the outside and inside where its rail heritage has been cleverly incorporated into the display of exhibits.
Île de la Cité
The #4 Metro will take you to the Cité Station on the Île de la Cité. Île de la Cité hosts two spectacular buildings, the Notre Dame and Sainte Chapelle and several other attractions.
La Concierge
A palace that was turned into a prison that held Marie Antoinette leading up to her execution. Now a museum it has some disturbing exhibits recreations of rooms where prisoners were kept before they were executed.
Place Dauphine
A small not-so-touristy square where you can sit and enjoy a meal or a drink at one of the cafes while doing some serious people watching, reading a book or watching locals play bocce ball at the end of the far end of the park.
Pont neuf
The oldest standing bridge across the River Seine. The bridge on the west side of the island connects the island with both the north bank and the south bank of the river, via the Île.
Sainte Chapelle
Of all the attractions on the Île de la Cité, most people have heard of Notre Dame but to me, Sainte Chapelle is more spectacular, on the inside at least. It is my favorite spot in all of Paris!
Photographs do not do justice to this Gothic-style former chapel consecrated in 1248. It was built to house Christian relics including Christ’s Crown of Thorns (acquired by King Louis IX). While the Crown of Thorns is now on display at the Louvre, Sainte Chappelle is worth a relic-less visit.
As you can imagine the chapel was built to reflect the importance of the relics it was to house. My personal favorite, if you visit only one place in Paris – this should be it.
Notre Dame
Notre Dame de Paris (Our Lady of Paris). Please don’t pronounce the “Dame” as in the American slang for a woman. It should be pronounced as Dalm (like balm). This medieval Roman Catholic cathedral is located in the south east corner of the Île de la Cité and was constructed between 1163 and 1260.
Victor Hugo’s “The Hunchback of Notre Dame” published in 1831 led to renewed public interest in the Cathedral but it is a beautiful piece of architecture in its own right, inside and out.
Unfortunately, in April 2019, a fire broke out beneath the roof of the cathedral and caused the collapse of the spire and most of the roof. Although the walls also suffered damage the rose windows, altar, and pipe organs were not damaged. The cathedral is currently closed for repairs which may take up to 40 years.
I have kept Notre Dame on my list of places to visit in Paris because when restored it will again be a place to visit, and also because it is a vivid example of how change affects our environment, and how hard we humans try to stop or reverse change when we put our mind to it.
Palace of Versailles
Take the #C Metro to Versailles Chateau – Rive Gauche Station (note that not all southbound C Metro trains go to this station) southwest of Paris. The palace web site gives additional detail for travel including train line closures, palace and garden opening days and times, and you can buy tickets online here.
Versailles Palace was built between 1661 and 1715 by King Louis XIII and King Louis XIV. Versailles was effectively the capital of France from 1682 until 1789 when the capital returned to Paris.
The inside of the palace is ornate and luxurious even for its time, and a must visit for anyone going to Paris. It is now a museum so there is tons to see – and see it you should – but I would not want to live in it. I haven’t been asked but just in case they do – its a no!
The gardens on the other hand I would take in a heartbeat!
The gardens of versailles (Jardins du château de Versailles) cover 800 hectares to the west of the palace and include the amazing fountains using the original hydraulic systems. The gardens are mostly designed to a French formal garden style but include woodland and the Grand Canal. On our last visit we arrived too late to fully enjoy the gardens but next time we will likely forgo the palace and tour the gardens only.
Pigalle
And finally, no guide to Paris would be complete without at least a mention of the nightlife in Paris. Artists like Pablo Picasso and Vincent van Gogh once lived here and Josephine Baker opened her first nightclub here.
The Pigalle is a touristy nightlife district with a raunchy reputation, like Soho in London, but on steroids. The Moulin Rouge (Red Windmill) founded in 1889 is probably one of the most famous cabarets in the world and although currently closed due to Covid-19, will presumably reopen when it can.
I hope you find this blog useful. I tried to limit the attractions to write about but the list just kept getting bigger. Time for another visit!
I chose not to rank these attractions other than to pick out one favorite site – that you can discover by reading the blog. Select what you want to see based on what you think you will find interesting and based on how much time you have in Paris.
Since the only thing we can be certain of is change, check some of the resources before you go – entry requirements, prices, accessibility and much else may have changed. Enjoy yourself!
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